Weekend Surf Forecast - Friday 6th Jan

Report Date: Friday 06 January 2017 For tips on forecasting see my book Surf Science, in paperback and animated versions Available at surfscience.org Summary Small in most places, with »

The Canyon Effect

On 20 December 2016, the circus came to town at NazarĂ© in Portugal. This time it was in the form of a big-wave contest, held in large, lumpy shifting peaks »

The Science Behind Backwash.

Backwash is a wave that travels seawards after being reflected from a steep shoreline. At some point it then usually meets and interferes with another incoming wave. If the two »

A-Frames - A Peek at The Science Behind the Peak

An A-frame is an extreme version of a peak, or wave that is biggest in the middle and tapers off either side. As its name suggests, it forms the shape »